Thank you kind sir, both for the your answer and for the smooth acceptance of my new email address.
- David

I have access to tape water and to demineralized (reverse osmosis) water. Which would be better to use when I mix up 5L of Eco Pro B&W film developer?

666 topics indeed, what kinda statement is that gonna make to the world?

- David

I've always been curious about Bert Hardy's "Super Soup" developer since reading http://www.photohistories.com/Photo-Histories/50/the-life-and-times-of-albert-hardy-1913-1995 SUPER SOUP: ; metol; soda sulfite; p-paraphenylenediamine[a.k.a. 1,4-Diaminobenzene]; glycin; but it gave no amounts. Browsin...

Ornello wrote:The question has been asked and answered

Answered well
I did enjoy Keith's mention of Perceptol and his exposure recommendation, also Ornello's link to the Microdol X thread on apug.org

Damn! I forgot this one.

Ornello wrote:Scanned B&W film will not give quality equal to printing no matter how you process it.

I'm confident you're correct. I'd just like to point out that you haven't seen my enlargements. I have seen them, and intend to avoid that disappointment. Never again.

Start with 8 minutes ... use 250 on the meter Got it! Thanks. Scanning is not the way to go. You don't want to do that. Got it. Scanning = bad, condensor enlarger with Grade 3 paper is best for final judgment of image. B&W film is silver particles, and those show up as more pronounced grain when sc...

Maybe start with 8 minutes on HP5. That's just a guess. Use grade 3, not grade 2 to print on, and work back from there to adjust the development time. 35mm negatives should have lower density in the highlights than large-format negatives, and have more shadow density. This means you should cut the ...

I would suggest you use D23 at half strength, as it's easy to make . . .Use at half-strength and discard after use. D23 it is then! 1) Got a suggested time from which I can test different development times? 2) the unblinking eye link proved interesting. Thanks! 3) This link just gives a Not Found e...

The formula known as D23 (an old Kodak formula) would be ideal for what you are trying to do. This developer produces negatives of speed and graininess comparable to Kodak D-76, without D-76's tendency to block highlights. I like the sound of this one, especially because it conforms more closely to...

I suggest strongly using a Metol-based developer such as D-76 or ID-11. Most other developers use phenidone or related compounds as developing agents, and these are not as sensitive to the release of bromide from the emulsion surface. In other words, Metol-based developers are best for the purpose ...

All latitude is for over-exposure. There is no under-exposure latitude at all. This makes much sense. I never suspected. The rest of your reply explains very well what it takes to accomplish this . Do not use Rodinal Got it! The very word will never pass my lips. Could HC-110 ever be diluted enough...

I would like your recommendations for increasing the exposure latitude of Kodak and Ilford B&W 35mm film I shoot 35mm roll film and cannot control the light on every subject I photograph. With standard processing, the 400TX data sheet's Characteristic Curve seems to have an exposure latitude of +5 t...

I hope you let us know how your tests come out with the new FX39.

Use an acid stop bath. If you don't, you will get scum on your film. I tried it, and that's what happened. You may use a plain water rinse first if you wish, but use an acid stop bath immediately thereafter. I tried going without an acid stop bath and regretted it. Just do it. Voice of experience. ...

But be sure to use an acid stop bath! Please review for me why an acid stop bath is superior to a 60 second wash/rinse with fresh tap water at the appropriate temperature when I use a conventional developer(e.g. Ilford DD-X or D76 1+1). I'm the last person to ignore your experience and advice. Howe...