Time for AgfA APX 100 at 400 using Rodinal or Studional?

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michielp
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Time for AgfA APX 100 at 400 using Rodinal or Studional?

Post by michielp »

Hi There,

I have used an Agfa Agfapan APX 100 film and used it at speed 400. I want to develop it using Rodinal or Studional. In the Dev Chart there is no time given for this combination. Does anyone have a suggestion for the development time for normal contrast?

Thus the combination is: AgfA APX 100 at 400 speed using Rodinal or Studional.

Many thanks!
Michael

pirateoversixty
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Post by pirateoversixty »

First, I would choose X-actol over Rodinal et al. In any event, go to the push processing page on digital truth. There are some general guidelines depending on the developer you are using.
Jim

Ornello
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Re: Time for AgfA APX 100 at 400 using Rodinal or Studional?

Post by Ornello »

michielp wrote:Hi There,

I have used an Agfa Agfapan APX 100 film and used it at speed 400. I want to develop it using Rodinal or Studional. In the Dev Chart there is no time given for this combination. Does anyone have a suggestion for the development time for normal contrast?

Thus the combination is: AgfA APX 100 at 400 speed using Rodinal or Studional.

Many thanks!
Michael
The film has been underexposed. Nothing will cure that.

michielp
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2006 5:24 am
Location: Netherlands

Post by michielp »

So you can not push APX100 two stops?

Not that I wanted to push it that far, but it happened:
Damned, I should have checked the old setting before exposing a complete roll of film.

Fotohuis
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Post by Fotohuis »

Your APX100 is underexposed so the rescue will be a speed enhanced developer (so certainly not Rodinal). e.g. Microphen or SPUR Ultra speed T or SLD.

http://vonkjes.nl/osCommerce/product_in ... ucts_id=66

A higher gamma of the film curve will be the result of this push processing so more difficult to print. With Rodinal you will not get these results at all, E.I. normally iso 80-100 for this APX 100 film and then working very well: High accutance, sharpness and nice tonality. One of the best combinations for this film.
"De enige beperking in je fotografie ben je zelf"

http://www.FotohuisRoVo.nl
http://gallery.fotohuisrovo.nl/

michielp
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Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2006 5:24 am
Location: Netherlands

Post by michielp »

Fotohuis wrote:Your APX100 is underexposed so the rescue will be a speed enhanced developer (so certainly not Rodinal). e.g. Microphen or SPUR Ultra speed T or SLD.

http://vonkjes.nl/osCommerce/product_in ... ucts_id=66

A higher gamma of the film curve will be the result of this push processing so more difficult to print. With Rodinal you will not get these results at all, E.I. normally iso 80-100 for this APX 100 film and then working very well: High accutance, sharpness and nice tonality. One of the best combinations for this film.
Where can I find the developing times for these developers and my underexposed APX100 at 400 speed?

By the way, The DevChart tells me that I can use AM74 for an APX100 at 400 speed at 7 minutes. Will that give satisfactory results? Or XTol at about 15.5 minutes (1+1)?

Fotohuis
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Post by Fotohuis »

Ultra speed T APX 100 for iso 100: 6,5 Min. for iso 400: +2F 11,5 Min.
all on 20 degrees C.

AM74 is a semi compensating developer, will work fine for standard iso rate or at +1F. Same for Xtol.
Whatever you are doing you will loose the shadow details due to the fact the film is severe underexposed.

Microphen or Ultra speed T are designed to get max. speed with minimum loss of shadow details. These kind of developers are also often used to get max. speed on the ultra high speed B&W films like Delta 3200/Tmax. 3200 and Neopan 1600.

All kind of different developers have different characteristics which are fitting more or less better with some film but trying with a fine grain developer to speed up your film is a waste of time and material.
"De enige beperking in je fotografie ben je zelf"

http://www.FotohuisRoVo.nl
http://gallery.fotohuisrovo.nl/

Ornello
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Post by Ornello »

michielp wrote:So you can not push APX100 two stops?


Not that I wanted to push it that far, but it happened:
Damned, I should have checked the old setting before exposing a complete roll of film.
You cannot push any film, ever. It's of no use. The film crystals need a certain level of exposure. If they are underexposed, nothing can cure that. It is a popular myth that you can 'push' film. This is untrue. You can underexpose and over-devleop it, but the shadow detail is no greater than with normal development. Some developers may yield slightly(!) more shadow speed than others, and some (such as Rodinal) less shadow speed. But no developer will turn ISO 100 film into ISO 400 film. You may get at most 1/3 stop improvement.

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