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Push process for Ilford Delta 100 ISO film? Help!

Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 8:39 pm
by jonirae319
I accidentally shot a roll of Ilford 100 ISO at 400. The photos were taken outdoors on a sunny day, and I tend to overexpose a little bit according to my camera's meter.

If I push this when I process it, is it a lost cause, or might I get lucky? Also, I've never really done much with pushing and pulling, so any tips on time? I use either D76 or HC110 (Dilution B). I heard add two minutes to developing time for each stop? I want to try to get something out of them but I don't want to make them worse by overdeveloping either...

Re: Push process for Ilford Delta 100 ISO film? Help!

Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 5:50 am
by foolscape
jonirae319 wrote:I accidentally shot a roll of Ilford 100 ISO at 400. The photos were taken outdoors on a sunny day, and I tend to overexpose a little bit according to my camera's meter.

If I push this when I process it, is it a lost cause, or might I get lucky? Also, I've never really done much with pushing and pulling, so any tips on time? I use either D76 or HC110 (Dilution B). I heard add two minutes to developing time for each stop? I want to try to get something out of them but I don't want to make them worse by overdeveloping either...
I may be mistaken, but you may want to use a softer working developer (or dilution) for this, or your shadows may become too dense. Last time I did this, I used HC110 (unofficial) dilution E, which is 1:116 or so (I don't remember the exact dilution off hand) and used a semi-stand technique where I agitated for the first minute, and then for 15 seconds every 4 minutes thereafter. I used 20 minutes as a starting point for HP5, and added 5 minutes per stop pushed. At this dilution and technique, HC110 becomes a compensating developer. It supressed the highlights more that I had hoped, but I just printed it on a grade higher. Two provisos: 1) I was using an older emulsion. I don't know how Delta 100 will respond. 2) I was using 8x10 sheet film. If you are shooting 35mm, and printing larger than 8x10, you may want denser shadows on your negs.

--Gary

delta push

Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 7:45 pm
by pirateoversixty
ornellow will chime in shortly, I'm sure, to say that your film is ruined, forget it, pitch it, all is lost.
on the practical side, however, 400 is not all that bad; not good, but certainly not a lost cause. depending on the lighting to which the film was exposed, diafine could be an option. x tol is another option, and probably the best. i personally use acufine for situations such as this.
do a clip test or expose another roll at the same ei and experimentwith a
d eveloper or two.
Jim

Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 8:46 pm
by Jim Appleyard
There are times on the Massive Dev Chart for EI's of 400 for Delta 100 with Microphen and X-Tol. All is not lost.

Re: Push process for Ilford Delta 100 ISO film? Help!

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 11:59 am
by Ornello
jonirae319 wrote:I accidentally shot a roll of Ilford 100 ISO at 400. The photos were taken outdoors on a sunny day, and I tend to overexpose a little bit according to my camera's meter.

If I push this when I process it, is it a lost cause, or might I get lucky? Also, I've never really done much with pushing and pulling, so any tips on time? I use either D76 or HC110 (Dilution B). I heard add two minutes to developing time for each stop? I want to try to get something out of them but I don't want to make them worse by overdeveloping either...
I doubt seriously whether anything of value will be accomplished.

update

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 6:29 pm
by jonirae319
All right, folks, update. Thanks for the help.

I had to stick with the developers I always use because I had no other options... I ended up using D-76 for 13 minutes at 70 or so degrees and holding my breath... they actually came out really well. A little contrasty, yes, but I printed a bunch of stuff today and it all came out pretty well, I just had to burn in some skies, nothing crazy out of the ordinary.

Posted: Sat May 02, 2009 3:10 am
by foolscape
That's good.

A correction: It's dilution 'G', not dilution 'E'.

I'm glad it worked out for you.

--Gary